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Beading an egg


Part 1

From Mary Chidester
  • Those were the 1mm holeless glass beads. I start at the ring (or at the top when it's not an opening egg.). I take Aleene's Tacky glue, and stick a pile on a plate. I use a toothpick and spread a thin line of glue. With another toothpick, I get 3 or 4 beads. place them and get them straight. Keep repeating this till the first row is done.

    Let this row dry before starting the next. After that you can do several rows at a time without them moving. But if you don't let that first row dry, they tend to run away on you.

    Making a pendant without a screw ring, start at the top, glue the top up finding, let thatm dry and then bead down to the bottom. When close to the size of the bottom finding, glue it on, to be sure it's centered good. If you don't use a bottom finding, just bead all the way to the bottom.



  • From Linda Asbell I use a dental(needle) tool, sharp on both ends...one end is straight the other is curved. It works really well for getting into tight spaces, turning beads that have flopped over, scraping an extra bit of glue, etc. And I agree completely with Jane about pulling the string out of your beads. It will not matter how hard you try and how good you are your string will ALWAYS show up if you leave it in. I've heard some people say you need to leave the string in for extra strength, but by the time you have painted your egg, glued all the beads, crystal chain, hinges, findings...whatever you are using...you aren't really gaining anything from the string.


  • From Gail Thompson I found out that using a piece of spaghetti leaves just a tad bit of film on the flatbacks so I've chewed up the tip of a toothpick and use that to lift and place the flatbacks. It works just as well and leaves no film. If I goof (all the time!) and get some glue where I don't want it, I use a toothpick to lift off the excess glue. that will get tacky, then it's easier to just take that toothpick with the tad bit of glue on it that has dried and run it around all the edges where I might have goofed with the glue. It will adhere to the toothpick and lift off.


  • From Marilyn Q I use Epoxy...mainly because I'm an impatient person and want immediate results with vitually no "drying" time.....HOWEVER....if you are using white beads you need to be very very careful not to smear the epoxy around because it will definitly yellow later and show on the white beads


  • From Beverly Gaus I will try to advise because I do alot of beading. I have used my old fateful SOBO to glue on an up eye to use as a pull.  I have also used epoxy.  My  thought is the beads are on with SOBO the pulling on the up eye is the same that is on the beads.   I do not worry at all about gluing with SOBO, but just be sure it is dry before you "pull" on your "pull".   It does take time for the glue to dry under the up eye, so drying time is the only reason to use the epoxy.   'IN MY OPINION'


  • From Beverly The 3 cut beads always have 10 strands other types of beads may have more strands in a hank.  The 12/0 is smaller than the 9/0,  the 9/0 is a very good size to use on a goose egg. The 3 cut bead is a very pretty faceted bead, because of the 'cuts' they sparkle a lot. I have pictures of 3 cut, 2 cut, seed, unica, and bugle beads on my site. Each style of bead comes in different sizes.


  • Continue on to Beading 2


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